Wanderings and wonderings

Tuesday, 24 June 2014

The Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal is majestic. Completely symmetrical from the outside (inside the two cenotaphs are not positioned symmetrically). Although the complex is filled with tourists, there were places where it was possible to sit apart and admire the beautiful architecture. We were here for sunset, which was also lovely. The sun actually sets to the side of the Taj Mahal, and rises right behind it. Sunset wasn't a disappointment however. As we watched the sun descend, the buildings were bathed in the gorgeous yellow and orange light from the setting sun, turning the sky pink at one point. I also particularly like some of the clouds captured in the photos below. There are a lot of pictures here, of this one building, and there are many many more that I begrudgingly left out since 72 photos is a little too much for a blog post, even by my standards!

One important aspect of my trip to the Taj, was the hideous situation I encountered inside. This was all pushing, shoving, shouting and picture taking. It's important to remember that the Taj Mahal is a mausoleum, two people are buried here. Sure, the tombs inside the public part are empty and just for show, but I was shocked at the complete lack of respect shown to this resting place. Security were doing a terrible job of controlling everyone inside and I was happy to get back outside and simply take in the view from afar.

I'm grateful to have visited this heritage site, and for it to have completely lived up to its hype. Unlike when I visited the Terracotta Warriors in Xian, I did not leave here disappointed!

Love the clouds here.

Most of the calligraphy at the Taj Mahal is verses from the Quran

Saturday, 14 June 2014

Sunrise in Varanasi

A common occurrence during my trip to India and Nepal was extremely early wake up calls. I was up at 4.30am on 2 occations to try and catch a glimpse of a beautiful sunrise, up at 5am to jump on the bus and travel to the next destination (and caught glimpses of sunrises) and I was up at 5am to take an early morning flight through the Himalayas to see the peak of Everest. One of my favourite places visited on this trip was Varanasi in India. An extremely spiritual place, right on the ganges. This city is incredibly important to Hindus, a centre for pilgrimage. The ganges is considered holy, and to bathe here can purify one's soul. Many people come to Varanasi to die, because to be cremated here and have your ashes scattered into the Ganges means liberation from reincarnation. We witnessed a cremation ceremony, during a sunset boat ride, which I will post pictures of in another post, but despite how early the start, the sunrise I witnessed in Varanasi was one of the most memorable travel experiences I've ever had.

Amazingly I came to like the copious stray dogs in India, who would really mind their own business.

Sunday, 2 February 2014

Tradition Meets Modernity

One of the (very few) attractions in Abu Dhabi is the UAE Heritage Village. A small slice of what life used to be like. It's interesting to wander around, ducking in and out of the various areas to see 'traditional' Bedouin houses/tents. It's a little contrived, and also empty. The small museum is fairly interesting, housing various ancient tools, instruments and personal effects. However it's disappointingly shabby - water dripping into the showcases from the air conditioning unit, poor lighting and little care shown to the ancient artefacts. At the edge of the village, you can look across the water to the huge metal sky scrapers, another reminder of how far the city has come and how much has changed here.

I enjoyed wandering around, bought a few souvenirs from the ladies at the marketplace, and I suppose I would recommend visiting, but mostly because there is not much else to see and do in AD. Not really because of the quality of the place!

Also getting a cab back to the city centre afterwards proved to be difficult, most people come here on organised bus tours. I suggest asking the men at the entrance to help you out. I did this, after waiting around for over a quarter of an hour and within about 2 minutes I was enjoying the cool interior of a taxi heading back to meet Samantha for lunch!

Texting away while leaning on his camel!

Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Afternoon Tea in the Burj Kalifa

On the first backpacking trip I took, around Europe after graduating, my friends and I were back to basics travellers. We stayed in 20-bed dorm rooms, and scouted out free places to visit. We'd walk around and around for ages trying to find the cheapest place to eat dinner. Stuck to tap water where ever possible, and sometimes risked the public transport systems without a ticket. Over the years, however, I've learnt that it's not always necessary to be such a spend thrift. Trekking from restaurant to restaurant and ending up at the first one anyway. Sometimes it's worth saving money on something but other times it will be worth the splurge. For me, this is generally when I think that I will regret not having done or seen something. An experience that will stay with me long after the trip is worth handing over a little bit of dosh. This was why, when visiting Dubai, Samantha and I decided to spend a little more on afternoon tea in the Burj Kalifa, rather than just heading to the viewing deck. The restaurant is a couple of floors below the observation deck, but having visited my fair share of tall buildings: Taipei 101, Seoul Tower, Tokyo Tower, Radio City tower (in Liverpool)... I know that there is only so long you can stay at the top, having taken pictures of each direction and attempting to recognise buildings. To spend a little bit more, and have a longer time to enjoy the view, whilst drinking tea and eating cakes was definitely worth the extra cost.

Now, although I am extremely happy that we did this. Things did not on the whole go smoothly. I am always ready to admit when things go wrong through my own mistake or carelessness... ok not always. But anyway on this occation, Samantha and I were in no way responsible for the drama that surrounded our Afternoon Tea.

To get to the restaurant (Atmosphere), you must enter the Burj Kalifa through the Armani Hotel entrance. We did this, quickly popping to the loo to change into our finery. We approached the staff to ask the way to the restaurant. Each staff member sent us the same way; along corridors, down in lifts, each smiling and pointing the same way when we double checked

"This way for the restaurant? For afternoon tea?"

"Yes, Yes this way, this way".

We eventually reached the end of the line when we emerged into the Dubai Mall. NOT where we wanted to be. Finally a staff member actually listened to where we want to be and shook his head;

"No, no through the Armani hotel entrance"
"THAT'S WHERE WE JUST WERE! THEY SEND US HERE!!"

He refused to let us retrace our steps, and informed us that we will need to walk around the entire circumference of the building to return to where we have just been.

"Take a taxi, it's easier" (!)

Clearly it's absurd to suggest getting a taxi, so out we go (in our nice clothes) to walk half way back around the building, up and down steps and around large fenced off areas. It's really bloody hot and we are flustered because we are now going to be late. We walk up the slope, to the vehicle barriers (UAE is not pedestrian friendly).

After much frustration, we make it to the Armani hotel (again) I'm extremely annoyed by now and make it very clear to the reception staff that we need to be personally escorted to the correct place to avoid another catastrophe. They do this (reluctantly), and then the second lot of reception staff make us feel about 2 cm tall by explaining that we needed to be at the Armani hotel entrance to reach the restaurant. Of course that's exactly where we were, before the hotel staff sent us on a wild goose chase, but the self righteous lady on the desk doesn't want to believe us. Heaven forbid two single western women actually know what they're doing.

Anyway we finally get into the lift and head up to the 122 floor. By now our table is gone. Or at least the restaurant decide to seat us away from the window. We have expressly asked for a window table, otherwise what's the point? So we start to talk about leaving. It is only when we are practically standing up with our coats on that they magically find us a table. Thank goodness! We are now seated with a great view and are ready to enjoy our cakes. Unfortunately the staff seem to forget about us, and we twice have to request they take our tea order and bring us the cake stand of goodies.

On the plus side; the food was delicious, the tea lovely and the free Pink Flamingo mocktail very refreshing. And not only did we get a fantastic experience out of it, but I guess the drama is entertaining... in hindsight!