The Statue of Liberty

What better way to begin the posts about my American adventure than with the Statue of Liberty? Symbol of all things American, she stands there day after day holding up that beacon, having witnessed the entry of hundreds of thousands (millions?) of people arriving in a land of promise and prosperity.

On the day I visited, the weather was boiling, the boat packed, water calm and sky blue. I had bought a ticket for both Liberty and Ellis Island and I was actually more interested in spending time inside the Ellis Island Museum. I didn't bother with the free audio tour of the statue, and only spent enough time on the island to take a few photos, gaze over the sea back at Manhattan and make a quick loop around. Then I was back into the big queue to the boat over to Ellis Island.

This was easily one of my most enjoyable days in New York. The museum was fascinating, I could have spent longer than the 2 hours I did there, only I was meeting Samantha in the late afternoon for a tour in the Tenement Museum. Ellis Island was filled with stories of family, bravery and hope. Although I have lived abroad, I always knew I could (and probably would) go home one day, but those European (and later Asian) immigrants left everything they knew, everyone they knew, to start a completely new life. With no real guarantee that things would work out, surviving mostly due to hard work and determination. I have so much respect for all of those brave people. Immigration is an extremely hot topic at home right now, and our government's constant attempts to stop people entering the country directly affects my job. So to say I am quite invested in it is fair to say. The UK has a long history of immigration, those coming from our former colonies and weaving a rich multicultural tapestry, particularly in London, of which I am immensely proud. But the UK never experienced that which America did. The peak immigration years saw Europeans pouring into the country to start their new lives, encouraged by the ocean liners, who, I was interested to find out, made most of their money from the poor passengers in steerage class. First class passengers demanded too much for the liners to make a profit off of their tickets, but steerage expected nothing and were given the bare minimum. They were the life blood of the companies.

Back in Manhattan in the late afternoon, we were booked onto a tour of the tenement museum. Another fascinating place, that is a fantastic museum to visit. I will definitely be going back there on another trip! The museum is housed in an old tenement block that was never upgraded by the landlord when the city authorities were making the city more fire-proof. It lay dormant and blocked up for years, until it was discovered by the tenement museum founders. A doorway into the past, and a real life example of what most of the city's buildings used to look like. After meticulous research they have uncovered the stories from immigrant families who inhabited the house over the years. Samantha and I heard the story of an Irish immigrant family, who were living in a German neighbourhood (Kleine Deutschland) we heard about their struggles and family life, the poverty they experienced and the prejudice and distain held towards the Irish - 'No Irish need apply' was one of the signature songs of the time. Truly captivating and thought-provoking I cannot recommend both the Ellis Island and Tenement museums highly enough.

"They asked us the questions, 'How much is two and one? How much is two and two?' But the next young girl also from our city, went and they asked her 'How do you wash stairs, from the top or from the bottom?' She says, 'I don't go to America to wash stairs'" 

This was my favourite quote of all the immigrants anecdotes in the museum! Good on you, Polish immigrant, not accepting the lowly expectations of the authorities!

The Tenement Museum

One thing I thought as the boat circled around the statue and came into dock, as the loud speaker gave us some general facts about the statue, was how this was originally copper; time and weather turning the shiny bronze to green. I think the weathering does nothing to diminish its effect, but for a second I wished I could go back in time, perhaps be on one of the first boats to arrive there, cheering along with my fellow passengers as the statue came into sight. Finally reaching our destination, and to look up, and marvel at the shiny, copper lady. Then all at once, I was back in 2015, jostling along with the Chinese tourists attempting to cut their mobile phones out of my picture and tutting as they stood on the seats the loud speaker had just asked us not to put our feet on. 

"Who would've thought an island that tiny would be big enough to hold all our old boyfriends?" (Miranda - Sex and the City)

Hidden History in London

There's a little known, hidden place in London that holds a sad history. Around the corner from the hustle and bustle of Borough Market. Of tourists and Londoners buying organic carrots and vegan cupcakes. Only a few minutes from the gruesome London dungeon and beautiful Southwark Cathedral sits the crossbones cemetery. A post-medieval cemetery for 'single women'. This was the euphemism given to prostitutes of the time; sometimes also called the Winchester Geese after the Bishop of Winchester who licensed them to work in one particular area of Southwark. The plaque on the gate outside describes those at rest here as 'the outcast dead'. Along with the Bishop of Winchester's prostitutes, paupers, unmarried mothers, newborn/stillborn babies or other people on the fringes of society have been laid to rest here.

Squeezed on a small area of land, found and excavated during the Museum of London's explorations, when transport for London were building the Jubilee line, this place is little know and hardly visited. If you take an alternative London tour of the area you will be shown here, as I was a few months ago. The sad history of this place is all but lost to most Londoners and the thousands of tourists who pass through Borough Market, catching a glimpse of Bridget Jones' front door and the secret entrance to the Leaky Cauldron. Although there is not a lot to see here, I felt it was meaningful to stop and pay tribute to the vulnerable of a London from the past, a graveyard full of people from the fringe of society, who were not even afforded a sacred burial ground.

I don't know what future plans there are for this space, but I sincerely hope it is not demolished to make way for a car park or trendy new bar. Those buried here, as those buried elsewhere deserve a peaceful resting place.

The Amber Fort

We passed it on the bus journey to Jaipur, all of us snapping photos out of the windows as we sped past. A dusty looking orange complex of buildings set high up on a hill, overlook a placid lake below. The next day, shepherded back onto our bus, we travelled back to this structure, tour guide in tow and cameras at the ready.

This was the Amber For (pronounced Amer Fort). We were offered Elephant rides to the top, which having experienced twice before (Here and here) I wasn't exactly enthused by. Thankfully when everyone else realised the size of the queue we decided to sack off the idea and walk up. 

Our guide took us around the four sections, stopping to give us information about each one. History and traditions that I have since forgotten. The impressions and feelings conjured whilst visiting places remain while facts and figures are lost to me. Parts of the Fort were beautiful, clever in design and reverent to their spiritual nature. However, I wasn't exactly blown away by the Amber Fort. And especially when compared with the beauty of the Taj Mahal. This fort was build primarily as a military structure, with safety and security as it's purpose. It was never supposed to be a stunning structure set up on the hill. Perhaps I should have listened to the historical commentary more closely, but after the stunning temples and palaces of South East Asia, I guess I had been spoilt into expecting beauty in royal/religious buildings.

The view that women would have been permitted when this was a working palace.

Tradition Meets Modernity

One of the (very few) attractions in Abu Dhabi is the UAE Heritage Village. A small slice of what life used to be like. It's interesting to wander around, ducking in and out of the various areas to see 'traditional' Bedouin houses/tents. It's a little contrived, and also empty. The small museum is fairly interesting, housing various ancient tools, instruments and personal effects. However it's disappointingly shabby - water dripping into the showcases from the air conditioning unit, poor lighting and little care shown to the ancient artefacts. At the edge of the village, you can look across the water to the huge metal sky scrapers, another reminder of how far the city has come and how much has changed here.

I enjoyed wandering around, bought a few souvenirs from the ladies at the marketplace, and I suppose I would recommend visiting, but mostly because there is not much else to see and do in AD. Not really because of the quality of the place!

Also getting a cab back to the city centre afterwards proved to be difficult, most people come here on organised bus tours. I suggest asking the men at the entrance to help you out. I did this, after waiting around for over a quarter of an hour and within about 2 minutes I was enjoying the cool interior of a taxi heading back to meet Samantha for lunch!

Texting away while leaning on his camel!

Walking around Barcelona

On the walking tour (from Travel bound) of Barcelona, we headed off around the gothic quarter of the city, hearing lots of tales about the complex and fascinating history of the fabulous city. I finally got to see my brother in tour guide action, although we had quite a small group so he was a little toned down than normal (or so I've heard). I didn't take the cycling tour of the city, which takes you further up to see Sagrada Familia and Gaudi's various houses. I'd seen these a few years ago on my last visit to Barcelona. I did walk up to the Casa Oriental (and therefore past Gaudi's house) on another day, only to find the place closed!

If you're in Barcelona, definitely take one of the walking tours, they are free (aside from a tip to your guide) and a great way to see the city and hear the story of Barcelona - from a person rather than out of a guide book.

On this second trip to Barcelona, I really enjoyed wandering around this very walkable city, despite my sandals gave me blisters (ON THE BOTTOM OF MY FEET!) on the first day! I found the nicest place for a wander was around the area to the east of Las Rambla, along to the Arc De Triomf with a stop off in Parc de la Ciutadella (and the very ornate Gaudi fountain) You could also take the Mario Kart challenge behind the Arc!

Picasso's favourite absinthe bar!

Follow the modernist trail around the city

Picasso's drawings on the school of Architecture

The old gate of the city

Reused bricks from an old synagogue (identified by the remaining Hebrew)

Wilfred the Hairy (founder of Barcelona - I think)

The same steps that Columbus walked up

George; patron saint of just about everywhere!

Statue in George Orwell square - a camera (Big brother's watching you)

Gaudi's first piece of work - a lamp post

The destruction of war

The buildings in this small square particularly bare the scars from the civil war.

This is the fountain from this music video

Also in this square: Shoe museum!!